Read and download Makita Planer 2030S User's Manual| Page 4 online. Download free Makita user manuals, owners manuals, instructions, warranties and installation guides, etc. I have a Makita 2030 planer/jointer that I’m going to do a full restoration on. I would typically seek assistance over at OWWM, but even the mention of an asian. View and Download Makita 2030N instruction manual online.
Hey Guys I picked up this machine fairly cheap but needing replacement rollers. I have done a lot of research on the web so far & the best I can determine is there is 3-models. I believe mine is the plane 2030 Type 1. Anybody know. Also I need a manual.
Other posts on other sites state the rollers are self seating. Whe I reoved the screw I had to use my impact w/a phillips hit. Bam & they were out.
I have since put this machine back together but I assume the roller screws were tightened all the way but that does'nt make sence, since there are 2-heavy springs above each roller. That makes me belive the screws are tightened to a certain point to allow the springs to work?????
Maybe being tough to removed the factory used locktight?? Any help would be appreciated. The rollers sit in square shaped plane bearings that can move up/down in their mount.
But they are spring loaded from above to provide pressure against the wood being fed through. The metal covers that hold the bearings in place are fastened with two pan head screws each. Those screws are torqued pretty good and most people I've talked to have had problems like you did getting them out. I have found that using a phillips bit in a 1/4' socket wrench for leverage works well to remove/install them. There is no way to 'adjust' the rollers except one. If you look at the plane bearings, you will notice that the hole the roller shaft fits through is drilled slightly off center.
That allows a very slight adjustment to position, and both should be oriented the same way to keep them parallel. Other than that, there isn't much you need to do regarding the rollers besides keep them clean. As for the model. AFAIK, there were two 2030's made, the Type 1 and Type 2. And the only difference between those that I've noticed is how the jointer fence was attached to the machine. Then you have the 2030N which changes the planer table support post arrangement (4 instead of 2).
There is also a 2030S which is really a different beast all together. I have a manual for the 2030 in PDF format. PM me if you still need it. I received this info regarding have my rollers redone by Wood Tech Ent.
15 Khristy Scott Lane Fairview, NC 28730 828-628-4414 We do offer recovers on your Makita 2030N rollers. They run $98.50 each. Our shop will strip and clean your rollers and re-mold new duro 70 (yellow) material on them. Original rollers were polyester. The new rollers will be polyether which holds up better to UV, ozone and will last a lot longer. Clean only with mild soap and water.
After you give us your info, we値l give you the address for our recover shop in FL. They do excellent work and it takes about a week. We値l have you reinforce your box and send them (insured) to our recover shop. He will return them directly to you.
How high do you set your feed rollers relative to the blade? Somewhere I recall reading a post that said to adjust them so that they put a very minimal amount of pressure on the wood. The manual I have makes no mention of this adjustment at all. Thanks, Jim On the 12' Makita 2030 Planer jointer there is no adjustment, on the 15 5/8' Makita 2040 Planer there is a pressure adjustment screw, trial & error on some test pieces is all you need to try.no hard & fast rule other than the even minimum pressure on the roller in order to feed effectively. The type 1 has treaded pressure adjustment screw pins & the type 2 is not threaded, the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand.
Really weird but my manual has the steps before and after but skips that part. For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the later manuals omitted it. Be prepared to curse & swear before you get the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be required. In FWW #52 (May-June 1985 - also available in the 'Power Saws and Planers' Best of FWW book), there was an article by Dave Sloan on. The bed rollers are steel, but the feed rollers are rubber.
All are adjustable, but the current owners' manual doesn't explain how to adjust feed-roller height (our old manual did). This omission is due to Makita's concern that misadjustment might overstress the cast-aluminum frame of the machine. Anyone who uses the 2040 seriously will need to know how to adjust the feed rollers. Roller height is set by means of screws on the top of the planer at the ends of each roller, and is adjusted with a slotted, threaded ring that surrounds the spring-tension screw. This arrangement could be improved upon. Trying to turn the large out side ring is impossible with a regular screwdriver, and I finally resorted to using a big cold chisel as a screwdriver. Luigi Replace 'nonet' with 'yukonomics' for real email address www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html.
Really weird but my manual has the steps before and after but skips that part. For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the later manuals omitted it. Be prepared to curse & swear before you get the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be required. That's why I said the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand, they modified that feature, the earlier model was a bitch unless the adjustment screw had been used often & still turned with ease. The type 1 can be easily converted to the type 2 if it gives you trouble. For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the later manuals omitted it.
Be prepared to curse & swear before you get the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be required. That's why I said the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand, they modified that feature, the earlier model was a bitch unless the adjustment screw had been used often & still turned with ease. The type 1 can be easily converted to the type 2 if it gives you trouble. I did get the type 2 assemblies quite a number of years ago, but never installed them.
Will probably have to fairly soon as the rollers are starting to look pretty fugly and might need resurfacing or replacing. Any suggestions where I can get them resurfaced? I am also going to ask the local newspapers and printers where they get theirs done. Luigi Replace 'nonet' with 'yukonomics' for real email address www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html.
For some weird reason, Makita stopped showing how to do it and the later manuals omitted it. Be prepared to curse & swear before you get the adjustment screws to move. WD40 and a propane torch might be required. That's why I said the type 2 is easier to adjust by hand, they modified that feature, the earlier model was a bitch unless the adjustment screw had been used often & still turned with ease. The type 1 can be easily converted to the type 2 if it gives you trouble.
I did get the type 2 assemblies quite a number of years ago, but never installed them. Will probably have to fairly soon as the rollers are starting to look pretty fugly and might need resurfacing or replacing. Any suggestions where I can get them resurfaced? I am also going to ask the local newspapers and printers where they get theirs done. Luigi As far as resurfacing.no clue.we always install new OEM rollers on the 2040 when required at about $390 Canadian $300US (installed & warrantied for 90 days) One of the few tools we even prefer to service on the job so we can run a few boards through.
Well worth the money if the rest of the planer is in good shape especially if it has the type 2 adjusters too. Most rollers crack & separate from having been set too tight. As far as resurfacing.no clue.we always install new OEM rollers on the 2040 when required at about $390 Canadian $300US (installed & warrantied for 90 days) One of the few tools we even prefer to service on the job so we can run a few boards through. Well worth the money if the rest of the planer is in good shape especially if it has the type 2 adjusters too. Most rollers crack & separate from having been set too tight.
Wanna come to Whitehorse & do mine?;-) Actually, if you DAGS on '2040' in rec.woodworking, you'll see quite a few discussions on resurfacing rollers. What do you mean by crack & separate? Mine are just worn, with ridges, and I suspect the rubber has hardened. Luigi Replace 'nonet' with 'yukonomics' for real email address www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html.